Christmas in Germany

Saying that Christmastime in Germany has been different than in America is probably an understatement. It’s always the differences that stand out when you’re a foreigner, particularly things you admire. Here are some of my favorite things from Dezember’s Adventszeit, or Advent season so far:
1. When was the last time someone in the U.S. wished you a merry Advent? For four weeks now, Germans at work, at the bakery, on television and elsewhere have routinely left me with this upon departing. I find it particularly pleasant, and even reassuring to know that a whole society still recognizes Advent as a distinct time of year.
2. Next question: when was the last time you stood around with your co-workers and sang carols and hymns at your Christmas party? Well, the other night we certainly did at ours, an interesting departure from the strict division of Church and State adhered to in the States. But it was also a welcome and refreshing moment for me. Truly, it’s been a lot of fun to (try to) sing hymns in German, many of which are rather familiar because we sing them in English: “Herbei, O ihr Gläubigen” (Oh Come O Ye Faithful), “Stille Nacht” (Silent Night), and “O Tannenbaum.” John’s Recommended German Christmas Carol of 2009? Well, the winner is “Es ist ein Ros entsprungen,” or “Lo, How a Rose E'er Blooming.” Check out a version here.
3. Germany seems to have special cuisine during the Christmas season, a phenomenon more or less lacking in the US. I recently ate a Weihnachtsschlemmerei (a Christmas feast, not to mention a mouthful to say too!) which was a generous helping of crispy goose (my first) and duck served aside Grünkohl (kale?) and Apfelrotkohl (red cabbage and apple deliciousness). As I was even forewarned, this apple cabbage stuff just tastes like Christmas. And as for the green kale-like vegetable mash, this stuff is so popular that one northern city in Germany even crowns a national politician as the Grünkohlkönig, or Grünkohl-King, annually. Angela Merkel was selected a couple years back. I will definitely need these recipes before departing.
4. The Christmas markets, while kitschy at times to be sure, have been a true highlight of the season. Berlin alone probably has thirty, and it seems every town large and small in this country goes all out for their very own. Everywhere you go, you encounter the smells of roasted almonds, Spekulatius spiced cookies, hot mulled wine, and cherry beer; the sounds of Christmas choirs, bells, and trumpeters with their festive Christmas music; the colorfully lit stands of merchants selling gingerbread, handmade wooden decorations from the Erzgebirge, and other potential Christmas gifts. They really put me in the Christmas mood, and to be honest I even go out of my way sometimes just to walk through them. Of course, they are dangerous because it’s nearly impossible to walk through the festivities without suddenly realizing that you need a quick glass of mulled wine, a gingerbread, or maybe another Erzgebirge Pyramid just for the heck of it.

5. I always thought that the song "Last Christmas," by the fabled British duo Wham, was terrifically overplayed in America. That was before coming to Germany, where it seems legally required to play the song at every possible opportunity and ruin any Christmas mood that anyone might have. Funny enough, the music video just came on the TV again. Ok yeah I must go now and reclaim my Christmas cheer.

Because Lauren and I are staying in Berlin this year, we will be posting more in the next couple days about our Christmas abroad.